Arrived in Jaipur this afternoon, and are staying at the home of the owner of the car/driver comp. - they have a delightful private guest room with attached bathroom, and we have just enjoyed a delicious dinner with the family. PLUS, they have Wi-Fi access (YEA!) ... so I can finally post the blogs I have been writing - if you want to read them in sequence scroll on down a bit ...
We have just spent 3 fascinating days staying in a round clay hut with a pointed thatch roof. Actually, it was not as primitive as it sounds as it had a proper bathroom attached, complete with a shower powered by solar energy, so there was plenty of hot water. There were 5 such huts, situated 1km outside a small town called Nawalgarh, in a large organic garden. This was one of the bookings which I was a bit unsure of - it could have been hit or miss, but luckily for us it was a huge hit!
We decided to visit Nawalgarh (in northern Rajasthan) due to the large amount of havalis (homes) which have murals painted all over the outside and inside walls, plus most ceilings. They did not disappoint us ... built and decorated during the last 200 years by wealthy merchants of the time (this area was on the lucrative trading routes for silk, spices and opium ... and these merchants got very rich from it.) To display their wealth they competed with each other to build bigger houses with the most murals!
The town itself is a warren of narrow streets, with marauding goats, camel carts, over-loaded donkey carts, the ever-sacred wandering cows, cars, 3-wheeled taxis, huge buses and even people competing for the limited road space! I could have sat and just watched this world go by for hours. The ladies mostly wore very decorative red and orange saris and covered their faces. I so wanted to photograph them but they were not friendly to visitors, and turned away from the camera. But, the men were only too happy to be photographed - children also. I asked Kalpana, our guest house hostess, (and amazing cook!) why the women were so unfriendly. She answered that they are very shy, rural women ... and even she herself refuses to have her picture taken if she is out in the market. She gave an example of one day she was in the town shopping and wearing a particularly beautiful sari, when a large tour group got out of their bus and their leader asked her if she minded the tourists photographing her, she said she did mind. Yet, they all took photos anyway - and as she spoke I could still hear the anger and indignation in her voice.
This was an area I am uncomfortable with. I love taking photographs of people, and Indians have such great character in their faces. Yet, how would I feel if I was shopping downtown Ottawa and tourists kept pointing their cameras at me like I was a freak? I have posed this question to a number of photographers and their answer is always the same - go for it, take your snap, then escape. In the market, where most spoke only Hindi, I mimed asking permission by pointing to my camera then to them, and the men were always agreeable. (Kalpana said they just like posing for a Western lady!) But, on the drive to Jaipur this morning we saw 4 huge herds of sheep coming down the road towards us, with wonderful red turbaned and dhoti wearing men herding them along the road. Anish had to slow the car, and I quickly grabbed my camera and snapped pictures out of my window. The first herdsman immediately held out his hand for money, whilst the second yelled loudly in Hindi at me. Anish laughed as we drove away and told me they wanted money for the photographs.
We ate lunch today at a palace! The building was extravagance plus, but we just had to visit at least one of these many palaces dotted around Rajasthan (and it was on today's route.) It was built 200 years ago by a local Maharajah, and is now a very exclusive hotel for the super rich. But, we had a tour and ate a very tasty and expensive (by Indian standards) meal ... and it was fun to dream.
Tomorrow I hit the markets of Jaipur - which I've been told have the best silks and silver, I'd better go and sharpen my bargaining skills!
To be continued ...
We have just spent 3 fascinating days staying in a round clay hut with a pointed thatch roof. Actually, it was not as primitive as it sounds as it had a proper bathroom attached, complete with a shower powered by solar energy, so there was plenty of hot water. There were 5 such huts, situated 1km outside a small town called Nawalgarh, in a large organic garden. This was one of the bookings which I was a bit unsure of - it could have been hit or miss, but luckily for us it was a huge hit!
We decided to visit Nawalgarh (in northern Rajasthan) due to the large amount of havalis (homes) which have murals painted all over the outside and inside walls, plus most ceilings. They did not disappoint us ... built and decorated during the last 200 years by wealthy merchants of the time (this area was on the lucrative trading routes for silk, spices and opium ... and these merchants got very rich from it.) To display their wealth they competed with each other to build bigger houses with the most murals!
The town itself is a warren of narrow streets, with marauding goats, camel carts, over-loaded donkey carts, the ever-sacred wandering cows, cars, 3-wheeled taxis, huge buses and even people competing for the limited road space! I could have sat and just watched this world go by for hours. The ladies mostly wore very decorative red and orange saris and covered their faces. I so wanted to photograph them but they were not friendly to visitors, and turned away from the camera. But, the men were only too happy to be photographed - children also. I asked Kalpana, our guest house hostess, (and amazing cook!) why the women were so unfriendly. She answered that they are very shy, rural women ... and even she herself refuses to have her picture taken if she is out in the market. She gave an example of one day she was in the town shopping and wearing a particularly beautiful sari, when a large tour group got out of their bus and their leader asked her if she minded the tourists photographing her, she said she did mind. Yet, they all took photos anyway - and as she spoke I could still hear the anger and indignation in her voice.
This was an area I am uncomfortable with. I love taking photographs of people, and Indians have such great character in their faces. Yet, how would I feel if I was shopping downtown Ottawa and tourists kept pointing their cameras at me like I was a freak? I have posed this question to a number of photographers and their answer is always the same - go for it, take your snap, then escape. In the market, where most spoke only Hindi, I mimed asking permission by pointing to my camera then to them, and the men were always agreeable. (Kalpana said they just like posing for a Western lady!) But, on the drive to Jaipur this morning we saw 4 huge herds of sheep coming down the road towards us, with wonderful red turbaned and dhoti wearing men herding them along the road. Anish had to slow the car, and I quickly grabbed my camera and snapped pictures out of my window. The first herdsman immediately held out his hand for money, whilst the second yelled loudly in Hindi at me. Anish laughed as we drove away and told me they wanted money for the photographs.
We ate lunch today at a palace! The building was extravagance plus, but we just had to visit at least one of these many palaces dotted around Rajasthan (and it was on today's route.) It was built 200 years ago by a local Maharajah, and is now a very exclusive hotel for the super rich. But, we had a tour and ate a very tasty and expensive (by Indian standards) meal ... and it was fun to dream.
Tomorrow I hit the markets of Jaipur - which I've been told have the best silks and silver, I'd better go and sharpen my bargaining skills!
To be continued ...


























